Field Trip : GHNP
Photo Documentation - Field Trip of CEL Students to Great Himalayan National Park
Field Trip to Great Himalayan National Park: An enchanting experience
Ramya Gopalan
“…I prefer the forest to the street… …I prefer the earth beneath my feet…”
As we set off on our field trip to the Great Himalayan National Park I had a zillion thoughts running through my head – What would it be like? What would I learn? How would I help? Would the field trip be able to clear the scepticism that constantly echo through my head on the environment vs. development debates. This report contains a personal account of observations made, questions that continue to linger and possible solutions that may be adopted.
On the evening of 21 April, we sat around waiting for the bus to arrive, which we would board to reach our destination, and looking around the group I could not help but wonder how different each one of us were, representing different regions of the country, and representing different studies. Our group at the time seemed as complex as the study of the environment itself, which encompasses several contexts and ideas. It occurred to me that understanding the individuals of the group was as important as studying the environment which we were heading towards. The bus drive definitely proved worthy in that direction as we learnt a little more about each other before we nodded off catching a few hours sleep until the sun woke us up. As the sun streamed through the windows of the bus it brought with it glimpses of the beauty we were to witness in much more detail. Snaking alongside the River Beas dotted with rocks of all sizes, protected by the mountains on either side was a sight that anyone would like to wake upto! Need I say more?
We got off the bus a few kilometres before Kullu before a tunnel on the road where we waited for our knights from Sairopa to get us. Our knights arrived 20 minutes later in their jeeps (not white horses). We were introduced to Ankit, who was to coordinate the activities of our group. We took off in the jeeps towards Sairopa Guest house where we were greeted by warm friendly native faces – volunteers of the Sahara Group who awaited us with breakfast, an inviting sight after our long journey. Post breakfast we lounged around before our meeting with the Sahara Group Coordinator – Rajendra Chauhan. Sahara Group possessed the unique mix of a private/government/ NGO group intervening in that particular region of the valley. Their activities include eco tourism, setting up Women Savings and Credit Groups (WSCG), promoting other livelihood activities, medicinal plants etc. The presentation proved the necessity and usefulness of the groups’ interventions to the community however, a number of questions remained. The queries persistent in my mind relate to:
1) The sustainability of the initiative and the extent of the community’s dependency on the group
2) Whether provision of livelihood opportunities to the volunteers of the group actually prevent poaching or simply provides legitimate access to the Park
3) Were the savings made by the women groups generated into suitable production loans sufficient to ensure better earnings apart from repayment capacity
4) Does the work undertaken by Sahara and similar groups necessarily promote communal harmony in the region. Have any studies been able to identify a reverse swing?
Apart from the above a number of questions were raised by our group pertaining to forestry management, the functioning of the credit groups, eco tourism etc.
Following our meeting with Sahara we met the Park Director of GHNP – Ashok Mitter who introduced the Geography of the Park which includes the four valleys of Jiwanal, Sainj, Tirthan and Parvathi. The Income Generation Activities provided include Women Savings and Credit Groups (WSCG), vermi composting, medicinal herb propagation, hemp based handicraft, eco tourism, nursery work, wages through street theatre etc. Facilities include interpretation centres, dorms, training and community centres, tourist houses, trekking and patrolling huts. The above said activities were mainly intended by Forest Authourities to make up for benefits lost by communities on declaring GHNP as a forest reserve. Mr. Mitter also opined that the management plan needs to regulate forest yields and access for communities, re examine forest rules and revise activities proposed by Wildlife Institute of India (WII), Dehradun, which were not based on field exercise. Other concerns include loss of cattle due to leopard attacks and snake bites, the demand of roads to link up villages in the ecozone (265.6 million sq.km) which would increase poaching and smuggling and finally provision of alternate land by the Government.
The Park’s focus for the future would be on 1. Eco Tourism through the provision of camping equipment, training to local youth as guides/cooks, advertisement, selection of tourist routes and hot spots and 2. Eco Development mainly through the development of fuel saving technology.
Following our meeting with Mr. Mitter, as we set of towards our favourite spot – the dining room - we of course continued our endless stream of questions relating to the insufficiency in terms of the sheer number of officers and rangers appointed to the monitoring of the Park, providing incentives and the inclusion of communities in monitoring activities and promoting tourist homes with communities as hosts.
After lunch, the inviting river overtook our thoughts and we lazily sun bathed by the river enjoying the calm of the looming mountains above us and the sound of the water beside us.
In the evening, we met Mamta Chandar of Jagriti who work for the empowerment of poor, disadvantaged hill women, ensure participation of women in decision making bodies and promote and diversify sustainable livelihood options for poor households. Their activities aim at reducing women’s drudgery, saving energy, developing value added niche products, strengthening leadership amongst vulnerables, providing environmentally safe and low cost sanitation options, imparting education for disadvantaged lot and providing insurance coverage.
Mamta explained in detail the context of Himachal, the lack of attention the State received when compared to other Mountain States such as Uttaranchal, the weakness of participatory forest management on the ground, the impact of climate change, prevalence of heterogenous communities with deep rooted caste systems, and finally the need for NGOs to concentrate on those areas which the Government do not necessarily access as they are not as well connected.
On questioning the difference in the work undertaken by Sahara and Jagriti we learnt that of the two groups Jagriti works more with SCs/STs. Jagriti also has well developed indicators (both qualitative and quantitative) to identify target groups. Further, the work of Jagriti is structured on an empowerment model, which encompasses social, economic, cultural and self dependency aspects.
The main challenges faced by Jagriti include human resources – the need for more people to come in from cities and work on these issues, limited capacities of individuals, reducing women’s drudgery and cultural conflicts.
At the end of the day when we got together for yet another sumptuous meal, questions of course continued to persist – does the work of NGOs such as Jagriti and Sahara integrate wherever possible with other existing programmes of the government so as to prevent reinvention of the wheel, whether sufficient thrust is also being made on men to partake in the work carried out by women apart from other efforts made to reduce the drudgery faced by women.
Day 2 – we set off on our trek up to Rolla, which was to be our first base camp before which we met one of the village women groups to learn about their experience when working with Sahara. They were enthusiastic as they spoke of the benefits they had received and on the changes they could now make in their families and in the communities. We drove upto Gushaini and set off trekking to Rolla. At every step nature’s beauty overwhelmed us and her power humbled us. We sat down at the infamous Hippo rock to have our lunch before continuing on our journey alongside the Thirthan river. We were escorted by several birds (the only one I sighted was the blue tailed magpie) during our trek. At the end of our long trek, colourful tents, food, cheery faces and a thunderous river met us at Rolla. The night was extremely fun as we discussed our experiences of the day after which the volunteers of Sahara entertained us with some local tunes. I am not sure what brought a smile to my face that night as I looked up at the clear sky covered with glistening stars, listening to the volunteers sign enthusiastically as if it were the start rather than end of the day, looking around at my batchmates thinking that I know them atleast a little bit more.
The challenge of a tough trek ahead of us woke us up early the next morning as the exciting prospect of climbing Schilt loomed above us. We set off determined to make it right to the top. Our aching limbs were compensated by the beauty we found at every extra turn that we forced our legs to take. The snow-capped mountains opposite us provided enough of a breath taking view to keep us going not to mention the smiling face of my favourite volunteer Thek Ram ji who kept promising us that we could do it. We reached the T point and debated on whether to continue or head back. Although the group was split in the argument the spirit was the same which overtook the decision making and as it ended we all continued.. some of us running, some of us crawling! “…I’m on top of the world looking down on creation…” On reaching Schilt we were each engulfed in our own thoughts thrilled at having made it but disappointed at not spotting any wildlife. Oh Schilt!
Heading down we learnt was even more treacherous but we finally made it back to Rolla well on time feeling like a victorious army returning from battle. That night when we discussed our experiences the group highlighted a number of interesting observations. The Botanists noted the different shades in the trees, the beauty of the branches all facing the direction of the sun, the passion and commitment of the local volunteers, and finally the strength of our own group inspite of our many differences we pulled each other through supporting where necessary and staying together in spirit. The night once again ended with a gusto! More songs and dance. The next morning we headed back to Gushaini reliving every minute of the trek back.
At the end of our 3 day trek – the thoughts that lingered were as follows:
1. Why we did not see a single Gucci mushroom or evidence of wildlife around given that poaching was under control in these areas
2. Why the gates to the Park were unmanned
3. Why apart from a little litter inside the Park most litter (piles) were found immediately outside of the Park. Understood that the Park is the protected area but should sensitization of communities and tourists be limited to only the Park? Shouldn’t the awareness creation be holistic in approach?
This time returning to Sairopa the thoughts of hot water baths overtook the thoughts of more sumptuous meals…In the evening however, food was back…and we went to a villager’s house – Shakti who made us the most delicious traditional dish by name of Sidoo which tasted out – of – the – world! We met other women from the WSCG and also reviewed their pass books and other books of accounts. It was easy to see their commitment towards the saving habit. We also admired the hemp products made by them.
Thursday – Day 5 – We decided to go upto Jalori pass since our need to see snow was foremost in all our minds. We drove up and then trekked the last few kms to Jalori pass and the few patches of snow was sufficient to keep us curiously engaged. Again, more breathtaking views and the sheer beauty kept us intrigued. “…The hills are alive with the sound of music…”
Jalori Pass
Later in the evening we met Raju Gandhi a local stalwart for fighting the establishment of 7 hydel projects in the village. He also hosts tourists in his home. He gave us a first hand account of the problems caused by the setting up of mini hydel projects mainly for private use, the damage they cause to the environment and communities living within. He enumerated how the two main reasons for infeasibility of hydel projects in the area was 1. the thrithan river being a huge fishing ground for trout and 2. the ratio of electricity generated to the loss of forest land was infeasible. When driving through valleys we did notice the obvious difference in the water and the environment around between the valleys subject to hydel projects and the thirthan valley, which stood its ground against the setting up of these projects. Two questions arise at this point 1. How effective are public private partnerships in hydel projects undertaken within certain critieria to ensure sustainable development? and 2. Is the stock of trout replenished on the basis of a calculated harvest rate and is the harvest rate inclusive of all permitted and non permitted fishing activities?
Friday – Day 6 – We packed up bid good bye to our gracious volunteers and hosts and headed to Kullu where we were received by Mamta to see the works done by the women groups after which we went to meet Mr. Mittra the forest officer who on hearing our experiences explained the increasing impact of climate change on the livelihoods of people living in the mountain regions of Himachal. The occurrence of flash floods, the impact on harvesting months and subsequent loss of crops and finally the increasing incidence of erosion and land slides on the hill slopes. He also provided interesting examples of attitudes of people as sometimes being naturally resistant, elaborating finally on the work undertaken by the Forest Department towards addressing the various issues.
The day concluded with a feast prepared by Ankit’s wife and some shopping along the road leading to our bus stop. As we bid our final good byes and thanked Ankit, we boarded the bus each of us occupied with thoughts of the days gone by, of the people we met. This report of course throws up many questions some answered some still to be. Nevertheless, what remains is the beauty of nature, the passion to preserve it and the earnestness with which work was being carried out, which is definitely commendable!
A number of possible solutions come to mind, which can perhaps be incorporated:
- Conduct awareness camps for students and target student groups, eco clubs in schools etc as eco tourists
- Provide complete training to women as an incentive based on their performance within the WSCG they belong to. For instance few women maybe selected and given training from the first stage until the day of marketing a product. Other training may also be provided on select vocational aspects
- Promote incentives for communities to engage in monitoring activities of poachers
- Adopt a holistic approach to creating awareness within communities on the issues affecting their environment
- Calculate “ecological footprint” of a tourist on an average keeping energy, water, and other resources as indicators consumed which can therefore determine the carrying capacity of the Park
- Stringent measures on issuing permits for the Park as well as on fishing activities
- Engaging in public private partnerships through developing a set of guidelines and pre requisites for the private enterprise to adopt as a”pro bono” policy which in the long run would contribute to sustainable development
